There are many advantages to planting fruit trees in containers. You might be renting and want to take your tree with you, or you don’t have the right space and soil conditions, or maybe you want to try planting something outside of your cold hardiness zone. Planting in containers allows you to help insulate you plants through the winter, as well as easily move them to suit your space. There are some considerations to make when choosing to plant in containers and we’re going to walk you through the basics to help you get started!

Which Trees to Plant in Pots

When choosing which trees to plant in pots, you should be looking for dwarfing or semi-dwarfing varieties. Below are some great fruit tree options, and we recommend searching through our catalog of these trees to find the one that best suits your climate and taste! Be sure to look at pollination requirements for your fruit trees to see if you will need two varieties to produce fruit. Information regarding USDA Zones, pollination requirements, rootstock, and yield will be listed near the bottom of each individual plant’s page.

• Apple
• Apricot
• Cherry
• Citrus
• Fig
• Pear
• Peaches and nectarines
• Plum

Choosing the Right Soil and Pot

Soil and Fertilization

Potted plants will need well-draining soil that is not susceptible to compacting, which will make thorough watering more difficult. It is important to research each varieties general soil needs to make sure you are meeting those as well. Fine propagation mix is great for starting seeds, but for trees and shrubs and vines, a coarser mix containing bark and pumice will help prevent root rot. Another consideration is soil acidity. While most plants are happy in regular potting soil, Tea and Blueberries like a more acid soil. Look for potting soil made for Blueberries and other acid loving plants like Rhododendron and Camellia. There are many citrus mixes that are a great option for other fruit trees as well due to being very well draining.

Fertilizing should be used during the growing season and applied according to the directions given by individual fertilizers. If you are living in a cold area and will need to help your plant through the winter, it is recommended to not fertilize during the fall. This way the plant does not begin lots of new growth that will be susceptible to cold damage as the winter settles in.

Different Containers and Potting-Up

When people are planning on growing potted trees, they often jump to looking for a large pot that would support a fully grown tree, but when you’re starting with a small one-gallon tree, you want to increase pot size incrementally. Too large of a pot will hold on to too much moisture and can lead to root rot. Once the tree has grown to the limits of a pot, you should pot it up 1/2″-2″ in diameter, depending on how fast the plant is growing. Selecting your container largely comes down to budget and aesthetic choice. The one thing that all pots should have is drainage holes to allow for airflow and prevent rotting. When your tree is young and growing quickly, it may be easier to stick with simpler cheaper pots until your tree is more established and doesn’t need to be potted up as frequently.

Pollination Requirements During Winter

Some plants bloom during the winter time, and this can make it difficult for them to be pollinated due to a lack of pollinators during the cold months. You might be overwintering your plant indoors or outdoors depending on your plant’s needs. Most citrus are overwintered indoors in cooler climates, and typically bloom in the winter. Regardless of if your plant is indoors or outdoors, due to the lack of pollinators available in the winter, you may want to play bee and help move pollen from flower to flower.  You can do this with a small brush and the appropriate buzzing sounds. 

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Cane Berries or Bramble Berries, better known as Blackberries and Raspberries are top choices for the “grow your own” foodies across the US. Cane Berries are one of the world’s most delicate and delicious fruits. Get ready for stained hands and tongues because each berry is made up of a hundred individual fruit juice bubbles. These berries are bursting with juicy flavor and packed with nutrition. A fully ripe cane berry will melt in your mouth and leave your taste buds wanting more.

Why you should grow Cane Berries?

Often the berries we buy in the store are expensive and shipped from far away. Store bought berries are picked immature while firm and bland and all packaged berries are sprayed with fungicides. This is done in order to meet the commercial demands for transportation, refrigeration and shelf life. This includes organic berries which are sprayed with approved chemicals to prevent molding. Many of the unique and tastiest varieties never make it to the grocery store shelves because they are to fragile for shipping. So why not grow this delicacy at home and enjoy healthy, vibrant fruit at peak nutrition?

Do it for your taste buds and your body! They’re easy to grow, incredibly delicious and you can freeze or preserve the harvest in jams or even make fresh fruit pies to share with friends and family. Cane Berries are nature’s “Fruitamins”!

How can you tell Blackberry & Raspberry apart?

Cane Berries and hybrids are easily distinguished by how the fruit comes off the canes.

Have you ever stuck a Raspberry on your finger before eating? That hollow core is a perfect fit for finger tips, making it a Raspberry. On the other hand, Blackberries will have a solid white core which holds the juice bubbles together and gives the fruit a firmer texture.

It’s so much fun to grow and harvest bushels (and mouthfuls) of juicy berries so let’s cover some of the basics of Cane Berry selection and cultivation in order to optimize production.

Types of Blackberry plants

There are three types of Blackberry plants: Trailing, Erect and Semi-erect. The newest cultivars are Thornless Blackberry plants with giant fruits up to 3 inches long! Check out Triple Crown for thornless canes and 30 pounds of giant berries per plant. Plant classic trailing and thorny varieties like Marionberry which is popular for unrivaled flavor and high-quality fruit. You would think all Blackberries are black in color, however, there are hybrids with purple fruit and a new release that is completely white in color, called a Polar Berry!

Many folks here in the Northwest question why they’d ever cultivate blackberries when they’re already growing wild along seemingly every road and pasture in the state, but keep in mind the named cultivars are far superior in flavor and production. We’ve seen many blackberry converts after they taste their first Triple Crown or Tayberry. Varieties differ greatly in flavor, ripening time, ­fruit ­& ­seed­ size, ­appearance, shape,­ texture and flavor.­ All types are self-fruitful, so you need only one plant to get fruit. Most Blackberries produce on second-year wood but a few will make first-year fruit too. Some OGW favorites for taste and production are thornless and “easy to pick” like Chester and primocane fruiting Navajo varieties.

Types of Raspberry plants

Raspberries come in two types and many shades and colors. There are June bearing, or floricane raspberries, which produce on second year canes. The other being everbearing , or primocane types, which produce on first year canes. Primocane varieties will produce a moderate crop in June and a much larger crop from late August until frost. Primocane varieties can be mowed to the ground after harvest and require less trellising than June bearing varieties, though we recommend planting a few of each to ensure you have a steady supply of berries throughout the season.

The rainbow of Raspberry fruit colors range from yellowish gold to shades of pink, reds, purple and all the way to Black. So many to choose from and so many delicious decisions.

Planting Bare root vs Container Plants

Container grown plants will produce fruit sooner and can be planted at anytime of the year. Bare root Cane Berries starts more economical and are best for planting in the spring. When you receive your bareroot you should plant them right away. If dry from shipping soak the roots in water for an hour to hydrate. Prune the roots if needed and the tip leaving only 3-5 inches. If you can’t plant immediately put the bareroots in a big container or pile with sawdust and or soil and “heel” them in. For dormant Cane Berry plants keep them moist but never saturated with water. Plants without leaves are the most susceptible to rotting. When over saturated with water a dormant caneberry may never wake up.

Plant Spacing

Blackberries need more space between the plants than Raspberries. Plant trailing Blackberries like Marion and Obsidian at least 6’ apart. The semi-erect and upright cultivars like Triple Crown only need about 4’ apart. Raspberries in general do best with 2’-3’ of spacing between plants.

Site Selection

Cane Berry plants require well-draining soil, rich in organic matter. If your soil is oversaturated with water or has standing water in the winter you must mound up or use planter boxes. Both Raspberry and Blackberry plants are best grown in rows with supporting wires and T-posts. Cane Berry plants prefer to be protected from the strong prevailing winds. Most areas of the US are suitable for growing Cane Berries and cultivars have been bred specifically for each bioregion of the country. Check your local extension agency for the best varieties to grow in your region. In general, Raspberry plants are more cold hardy than Blackberries.

Cultivation Tips

• “After fruiting if the cane is green let it be seen if the cane is brown cut it down”. This mnemonic device makes it easy to thin out canes.
• Removing the growing tip of each cane is beneficial for Blackberries. Cane tipping at 6’ is helpful to increase flowering and control cane length. Keep the canes in check and “soft tip” by hand in the summer. Also, tip canes back after winter in order to remove freeze damage and promote horizontal growth and increase production.
• Cane Berry plants need one inch of water or more per week between June – September. Rain or irrigation is required to produce large sized berries and healthy plants.

• Cane berry leaves should look healthy and vibrant green. Fertilize with a balanced organic fertilizer in spring and add plenty of compost to feed the canes and suppress weeds. Provide top layers of lighter brown materials like straw to retain moisture.
• In general, full sun is best for Cane Berry planting. Blackberry plants prefer a warmer area of the garden and Raspberry plants like the cooler spots with a little afternoon shade.

• Blackberry canes will tip root and spread once they touch the ground. You can make new plants this way by pulling the rooted tip and cutting it off the cane.

• Blackberry plants are more tolerant of heavy soils than Raspberry plants however it is best to grow on a site with good drainage.

• Raspberries will fill in an area once planted. Make sure you plant them in a spot where you can control the runners.

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The Wedge Method

The first step is to collect your dormant scion wood. Scions must be cut while they are still fully dormant for the highest grafting success rate. Be sure to cut wood on new growth that is disease free and growing vigorously. The healthier and more vigorous your scion is, the greater chance of success when grafting and having a fast-growing young tree.

Once your scion is cut, label it and store it in the refrigerator where it will easily keep for at least a month until you are ready to graft.

Selecting rootstock is just as important as selecting what variety you want to grow. Most people think of height at maturity when thinking of rootstock, but disease resistance, vigor, lifespan, soil adaptability, suckering, and how well anchored the tree will be are other factors to consider. Most rootstocks are widely adaptable and resilient, hence their use as rootstock, but checking in with other gardeners/farmers in your area or your local extension agency can help you to choose the perfect rootstock for your location. And of course, trialing many different rootstocks for your location always yields valuable data.

We realized a few years ago in our grafting classes that using red fleshed apples is a great way for beginners to clearly see the difference between the pith, sapwood, cambium, and bark. The pith is that white spot in the middle, the sapwood is red in this case, and the cambium is the lighter layer beneath the dark red bark. The cambium is the most important part here as it is the layer that is lined up between the scion and the rootstock in order to get the vascular tissue to fuse and form a successful graft union.

Be sure to sterilize all of your tools before you begin grafting to avoid the potential spread of pathogens across plant material.

When choosing which piece of scion to graft onto which rootstock, it can be helpful to find diameters that are similar so that both sides of the graft match up, but this is not essential. Often the rootstock or scion will vary in size and if you can get one side matched up perfectly then you’ll have success.

The first and easiest graft that most folks start with is the wedge graft. The take rate on these grafts is typically pretty high and you don’t need to have that skilled of a grafter’s hand to have success with it.

First, make a split down the middle of the rootstock. It is important that the knife cuts the wood cleanly rather than having it split so that a more solid connection between scion and rootstock is achieved.

TIP: We often put our thumb on top of the blade and above the rootstock to ensure that the blade stops when our thumb hits the top of the rootstock. This ensures we don’t cut our other hand that’s holding the rootstock and keeps the blade from making too deep of a cut.

Next, cut the scion wood on both sides to form a wedge that tapers down to a very slim point. It is important to cut at a direct angle rather than “scooping” with the grain of the wood so that there are no air pockets between the cambium layers.

The scion should then fit neatly into the wedge you’ve created in the rootstock with no gaps between the two pieces of wood. It is better to line up one side perfectly than to put the scion right in the middle of the rootstock. Eventually as the young tree grows, it will fuse on both sides.

Once the scion is situated, wrap it up with grafting tape and tie a rubber band around to hold it tight so the rootstock is squeezed to the scion. Some growers will wrap the scion completely to keep it from dehydrating, but with apples it’s usually sufficient to put a small piece on the top like a little hat unless it’s a very old or dehydrated piece of scion that you’re trying to save.

The Whip and Tongue Method

Once you’ve gotten the hang of wedge grafting, you can try moving on to the whip and tongue method. The take rate is similar with both methods once you’ve mastered them, although, the whip and tongue has the advantage of lining up the two pieces in a more fluid way. It also has a bit more structural integrity for the young graft because of the interlocking wood.

To create a whip and tongue graft, you’ll make a cut about 3/4″ long from one end of the scion diagonally across to the other. After this cut, make the “tongue”, a little incision into the middle of the wood – usually right where the pith is. Create a mirror cut on the rootstock then interlock the two pieces together. The trick here is getting the two tongues on either side of each other. We’ve found the budding tool on grafting knives can be helpful for opening the tongues up a little more so they easily fit into each other.

The interlocking pieces will help the young graft be more resilient to anything knocking it out of place. Follow the same finals steps from above to secure it with grafting tape and a rubber band.

Final Steps

Pot up your newly grafted tree and put it in a frost-free location, but somewhere that is not too warm. We’ve found that for many of the more temperate plants, if they’re put into a warm greenhouse immediately the scion will break dormancy before the graft is fully fused and can then collapse. Other species such as figs and persimmons much prefer a hot environment while the grafts are fusing, but in the case of apples it’s best to either graft them after all danger of frost has passed or put them in a cool hoophouse or garage. The use of bottom heat can be helpful here too as it will cause the rootstock to begin growing and breaking dormancy more quickly while the cooler air above keeps the scion dormant. 

Grafting your own trees is a very fun and economical way to propagate young fruit trees. It is also an essential skill for orchardists, nursery workers, and anybody trying to conserve rare varietals. Experiment with different techniques, rootstock combinations, interstems, and materials and you just might discover a unique new way to propagate your favorite fruit trees.

Happy grafting!

The post A Step-by-Step Guide to Grafting appeared first on One Green World.

What in the One Green World does “well-draining soil” actually mean? We’ve all seen this listed on indoor, garden, and orchard plant descriptions. We all know most varieties grow best in this elusive, mysterious medium. But what exactly is it? How do we tell if our soil is well-draining? If our soil isn’t well draining, should we reject gardening as a hobby altogether? What are some signs we’ve finally attained it?

Let’s get down to it!

The goal is to have (or create) soil that supplies both air and water to plant roots in about equal proportions. If you have coarse, sandy soil, you may notice that water drains quickly through it, so your plants dry out and wilt sooner. But in heavy clay soil, you may have the opposite problem, where water takes a long time to drain, causing roots to rot from a lack of airflow. Fortunately, it is possible to improve your soil if your garden suffers from either extreme. Improving its drainage will go a long way toward creating a healthy, successful garden or orchard.

Simply put: well-drained soil allows water to enter the soil structure at a moderate rate without pooling or puddling, hang out for long enough for the plants to absorb the water they need, and then move along, making way for good ol’ oxygen to join the party; the oxygen is also absorbed by the roots and allows them to “breathe” between waterings. Cool, right?

What are some characteristics of well-drained soil?
Imagine you fill a jar with various sizes of marbles. Each marble represents a soil particle. The spaces between the marbles are filled with oxygen and water, both of which are necessary for healthy plant growth. When it rains or you water your garden, these pore spaces in between the soil particles fill with water. As the water moves downward through the soil, it’s replaced by air. This movement is referred to as soil drainage, so let’s talk about why the speed of this process is important.

Well-drained soil retains water long enough for roots to absorb what the plant needs and dries out sufficiently between rains or waterings so that roots can take up oxygen in the air that replaces the water once it drains out. Puddles that form after heavy rain are absorbed quickly by well-drained soil. Generally, these soils have a loose structure that makes them easy to dig in. When soil drains too quickly, plants do not have enough time to absorb the water and can die. Likewise, when the soil does not drain quickly enough and plants are left in pooling water, their oxygen intake from the soil is reduced, root rot can set in, and the plants can die. Plants that are weak and suffering from insufficient or over watering are more susceptible to disease and insect damage too. Bad news bears!

How do I tell if my soil is well-draining?
Determining how well your soil drains is pretty easy. Just dig a hole approximately 15” x 15” and fill with water. After it drains completely, refill it with water and note how long it takes for the water level to drop. In soil with good drainage, the level should drop about an inch per hour.

How can I improve drainage?
To improve soil drainage, begin by simply digging organic matter (like compost or shredded leaves) into your existing soil. Compacted, clay, and sandy soils all benefit from being amended with rich organic materials. For areas with poor drainage to either extreme, too wet or too dry, thoroughly mix in organic materials such as peat moss, compost, shredded bark, or manure. Nutrient-rich, properly drained soil is very important for healthy plants. This is a straightforward solution and works for almost any soil that drains too fast or slowly. For an unplanted bed, spread 3-4 inches of your organic matter across the surface of the soil and work it into the top 8-12 inches (a garden tiller or pitchfork will do the job). For a bed that is already planted, add a couple of inches of compost to the soil surface each year and over time, nature will do the mixing. Compacted and clay soil can drain poorly and cause plant roots to sit too long in wet conditions. We advise against adding sand to clay soil to improve drainage– this will just make the problem worse! If you have heavy clay or compacted soil, either amend the soil to make it more porous or choose plants that can tolerate wet areas. Clay soil may be improved by installing a drain tile. Sandy soil can drain water away from plant roots too quickly. For sandy soil, amend the soil or choose plants that can tolerate dry and drought-like conditions. If you’d rather avoid lots of digging or want a quicker solution, you may find your solution in installing raised beds. The beds should be at least 6-8” above the existing soil level. Recipes abound for soil mixes for raised beds, but they are basically combinations of high-quality topsoil (40-60%) and compost or other well-decomposed organic matter. Creating well-draining soil in pots is similar. You can either buy bagged potting mix or make your own blend. We don’t recommend using soil from your garden in containers, no matter how well-drained.

Why are some parts of my garden or yard more well-draining than others?
It’s important to note that drainage may be different in different parts of your yard. There are many reasons why this occurs, including the removal of topsoil during construction, compaction with heavy equipment, drainage towards or diversions from municipal systems and utilities, or simply the lay of the land. If there is an area of the yard where the soil stays wet for long periods, the best solution may be to simply select plants that thrive in poorly drained, soggy soil such as Elephant Ear, ferns, and willows. Similarly, if an area of your yard stays on the dry side, no matter how much it rains or you water, that’s where you should place drought-tolerant plants, such as ceanothus, lavender, and yucca.

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One of our favorite fruits, Blueberries are easy to grow and will produce abundant crops of delectable and flavorful berries. In addition to nutritious and delicious fruit, these attractive shrubs will add beauty to your yard, garden or patio. Following these guidelines in our Blueberry Growing Guide will help you succeed in growing this tasty berry.

SITE SELECTION

Blueberries like well-drained, acidic soil and ½ day to full sun. On wetter sites, where water drains slowly, Blueberries will like growing in 2-3 ft. wide, 8-12” high, raised beds. Planting your Blueberries near your home makes frequent harvest easy.

SITE PREPARATION

Providing a good environment for your plants in the beginning will give you delicious rewards in the future. Planting in acid soil is one of the most important factors in success with Blueberries. If you are planting your Blueberries in the ground, adding abundant amounts of pre-moistened peat moss to your soil will increase acidity and make a nice environment for your plants. For each plant, prepare an about 2ft. in diameter and 1 ft. deep. Work in about a cubic ft. of peat moss (usually about ¼ of a bale). Well-rotted fir or pine sawdust can be used as a substitute for peat moss. Do not use cedar sawdust as it can be toxic to the root system.

If you are growing your plants in containers, use a coarse, well-drained potting soil that is designed for acid-loving plants like Rhododendrons and Azaleas.

PLANTING

Highbush Blueberries can be planted as close as 3 ft. apart to form a hedge and 6 ft. or more apart to be grown as individual specimens. Lowbush and Dwarf Blueberries can be spaced as close as 2 ft. apart.

Remove your plant from the container and lightly loosen and spread out the roots. Remove any excessively long roots and then dig your planting hole large enough to comfortably accommodate the root system. Place the plant in the hole so that the top surface of the potting soil is at the same level or a little above the level of the soil surrounding the planting hole. Firm the soil around your plant and water well.

After planting, it is a good idea to mulch your plant with 3-4 inches of fir, hemlock or pine sawdust. This will conserve moisture, suppress weeds and contribute to soil acidity.

WATERING & FERTILIZING

Once planted and watered in well, your new plant should not need supplemental water for some time. If planting during warm, dry weather pay attention to the original potting soil and do not let it dry out. It takes several weeks for the roots to fully establish contact with the new soil. Summer watering should be done deeply and infrequently. A mulched plant should not require watering more often than once a week.

Blueberries like acidic fertilizers, like those used for Rhododendrons and Azaleas. Down to Earth Acid Mix is specially formulated for Blueberries. Blood meal, fishmeal, cottonseed meal and feather meal are also good, organic, acidic fertilizers for your Blueberries. Your plant will not need much if any fertilizer the first year. The year after planting, pull back the mulch in March and spread approx. 1/2 lb. of any of these fertilizers on the soil around the plant. Apply fertilizer annually for best results.

POLLINATION & BLUEBERRY TYPES

Most of the time blueberry plants are going to produce fruit as many of the varieties on the market are self-fertile. But, if you are interested in maximizing your production and generally larger berries, pollination is key. There are considered to be 5 “types” of blueberries; Northern Highbush, Southern Highbush, Rabbiteye, Half-high, and Lowbush. For best pollination results most often it is ideal to choose a pollenizer within the same blueberry “type” that also shares a similar bloom time. In addition, matching a blueberry to its suited climate will play a role in production. The Rabbiteye varieties are considered not self-fertile and need to cross with another variety within its own “type”. The key below offers some key indicators for which type might work best in your climate while also highlighting bloom times.

Northern Highbush

• Average size: 5-9’
• Tolerate colder regions (most hardy to -15 to -30 degrees F)
• Most need a moderate amount of chill hours
• Great choice for PNW
• Generally considered self-fertile, cross-pollinates with all other Highbush varieties with matching bloom times
• Varieties: Aurora, Baby Blues, Bluecrop, Bluejay, Blueray, Cabernet Splash, Chandler, Darrow, Draper, Duke, Earliblue, Elliot, Hannah’s Choice, Legacy, Liberty, Patriot, Pink Icing, Pink Popcorn, Midnight Cascade, Mini Blues, Razz, Rubel, Sapphire Cascade, Spartan, Sunshine Blue, Superior, Sweetheart, Toro

Southern Highbush

• Average size: 6-8’ (4-6’ in northern regions)
• Hardiness (-10 to 5 degrees F depending on variety)
• Can be partially evergreen in Northern climates (though tends to grow a bit smaller)
• Great for regions with fewer chill hours
• Cross with other Southern Highbush or Northern with similar bloom time
• Varieties: Biloxi, Emerald, Jewel, Jubilee, O’Neal

Rabbiteye

• Average size: 6-10’
• 4-6’ in Northern regions
• Not as cold tolerant and flower bud damage with temps under 0 to 5 degrees F
• Great for long hot summers
• In PNW fruit ripens late summer early fall
• Not self-fertile, need another rabbiteye cultivar
• Varieties: Florida Rose, Misty, Nocturne, Ochlockonee, Pink Lemonade

Half-High

• Average size: 3-4’
• These cultivars are very hardy most down to -35 degrees F or lower
• Choose these cultivars for colder regions where other blueberry varieties can’t grow
• Also great for container growing and not as much pruning as Highbush cultivars
• Cross with Highbush cultivars with similar bloom time
• Varieties: Chippewa, Northcountry, Northsky, Tophat

Lowbush

• Average size: 1-2’
• Hardiness at least -30 degrees F
• Low growing shrubs that spread from underground stems
• Pruning is less necessary but if it gets to branch it may be beneficial to cut the plants back to the ground every 2-3 years
• Not self-fertile, cross with lowbush or Highbush cultivars with similar bloom times
• Varieties: Brunswick, Burgundy

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• Water plants deeply, ideally first thing in the morning while temperatures are still low and transpiration rates are low. Potted plants will probably want to be watered more than once a day during a heat wave. The next best time to water during hot weather is in the early evening. Trees and plants in or near irrigated grass yards will often want more frequent waterings as they can become spoiled and and often have shallower root systems. Generally speaking established trees will need deep waterings 2-3 time a week or more during heat waves. Soaker hoses, and drip irrigation work well for deep waterings as they insure there is less water run-off.
• Mulch deeply! If you don’t already have a thick layer of organic mulch around your plants, apply some before the temperatures really heat up. Organic mulch helps keep soil temperatures lower, retains moisture, keeps weed pressure down and improves soil health.
• Move potted plants to a shaded area. Plants in black plastic pots are more susceptible to having their roots fried in those hot pots than plants in ground are. While the heat wave persists move these plants to as cool of an area as possible. Also, beware of potted plants close to a wall that might receive radiant and or reflective heat during the day. Micro climates can increase temperatures by over 10 degrees.
• Set up shade cloth for young tender plants. Younger plants may not be able to handle the heat as well as more established plantings. Consider placing temporary shade cloth over them during the heat wave.
• Watch the leaves on your plants. Leaves wilt during extremely hot and sunny days as a defense mechanism. The wilting lowers the surface area exposed to the sun thus limiting transpiration and sunburn. However, if the plant does not perk up in the evening or after watering in the morning then it might be a sign of to much or too little watering.
• Install and irrigation system for you garden or orchard. The best defense for extreme weather is having healthy established plants. Caring for them year round with the right organic fertilizers and amendments, seasonal pruning, and good watering practices are the best way to insure your plants make it through extreme weather.

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