Please note that our bare root availability list is always changing.  Use this guide to skim through what is currently available and avoid searching.

Click on the name of the tree to be linked to the product page >>>

Bare Root Fruiting Trees

Bare Root Berries

The post 2025 Bare Root Availability List appeared first on One Green World.

The Wedge Method

The first step is to collect your dormant scion wood. Scions must be cut while they are still fully dormant for the highest grafting success rate. Be sure to cut wood on new growth that is disease free and growing vigorously. The healthier and more vigorous your scion is, the greater chance of success when grafting and having a fast-growing young tree.

Once your scion is cut, label it and store it in the refrigerator where it will easily keep for at least a month until you are ready to graft.

Selecting rootstock is just as important as selecting what variety you want to grow. Most people think of height at maturity when thinking of rootstock, but disease resistance, vigor, lifespan, soil adaptability, suckering, and how well anchored the tree will be are other factors to consider. Most rootstocks are widely adaptable and resilient, hence their use as rootstock, but checking in with other gardeners/farmers in your area or your local extension agency can help you to choose the perfect rootstock for your location. And of course, trialing many different rootstocks for your location always yields valuable data.

We realized a few years ago in our grafting classes that using red fleshed apples is a great way for beginners to clearly see the difference between the pith, sapwood, cambium, and bark. The pith is that white spot in the middle, the sapwood is red in this case, and the cambium is the lighter layer beneath the dark red bark. The cambium is the most important part here as it is the layer that is lined up between the scion and the rootstock in order to get the vascular tissue to fuse and form a successful graft union.

Be sure to sterilize all of your tools before you begin grafting to avoid the potential spread of pathogens across plant material.

When choosing which piece of scion to graft onto which rootstock, it can be helpful to find diameters that are similar so that both sides of the graft match up, but this is not essential. Often the rootstock or scion will vary in size and if you can get one side matched up perfectly then you’ll have success.

The first and easiest graft that most folks start with is the wedge graft. The take rate on these grafts is typically pretty high and you don’t need to have that skilled of a grafter’s hand to have success with it.

First, make a split down the middle of the rootstock. It is important that the knife cuts the wood cleanly rather than having it split so that a more solid connection between scion and rootstock is achieved.

TIP: We often put our thumb on top of the blade and above the rootstock to ensure that the blade stops when our thumb hits the top of the rootstock. This ensures we don’t cut our other hand that’s holding the rootstock and keeps the blade from making too deep of a cut.

Next, cut the scion wood on both sides to form a wedge that tapers down to a very slim point. It is important to cut at a direct angle rather than “scooping” with the grain of the wood so that there are no air pockets between the cambium layers.

The scion should then fit neatly into the wedge you’ve created in the rootstock with no gaps between the two pieces of wood. It is better to line up one side perfectly than to put the scion right in the middle of the rootstock. Eventually as the young tree grows, it will fuse on both sides.

Once the scion is situated, wrap it up with grafting tape and tie a rubber band around to hold it tight so the rootstock is squeezed to the scion. Some growers will wrap the scion completely to keep it from dehydrating, but with apples it’s usually sufficient to put a small piece on the top like a little hat unless it’s a very old or dehydrated piece of scion that you’re trying to save.

The Whip and Tongue Method

Once you’ve gotten the hang of wedge grafting, you can try moving on to the whip and tongue method. The take rate is similar with both methods once you’ve mastered them, although, the whip and tongue has the advantage of lining up the two pieces in a more fluid way. It also has a bit more structural integrity for the young graft because of the interlocking wood.

To create a whip and tongue graft, you’ll make a cut about 3/4″ long from one end of the scion diagonally across to the other. After this cut, make the “tongue”, a little incision into the middle of the wood – usually right where the pith is. Create a mirror cut on the rootstock then interlock the two pieces together. The trick here is getting the two tongues on either side of each other. We’ve found the budding tool on grafting knives can be helpful for opening the tongues up a little more so they easily fit into each other.

The interlocking pieces will help the young graft be more resilient to anything knocking it out of place. Follow the same finals steps from above to secure it with grafting tape and a rubber band.

Final Steps

Pot up your newly grafted tree and put it in a frost-free location, but somewhere that is not too warm. We’ve found that for many of the more temperate plants, if they’re put into a warm greenhouse immediately the scion will break dormancy before the graft is fully fused and can then collapse. Other species such as figs and persimmons much prefer a hot environment while the grafts are fusing, but in the case of apples it’s best to either graft them after all danger of frost has passed or put them in a cool hoophouse or garage. The use of bottom heat can be helpful here too as it will cause the rootstock to begin growing and breaking dormancy more quickly while the cooler air above keeps the scion dormant. 

Grafting your own trees is a very fun and economical way to propagate young fruit trees. It is also an essential skill for orchardists, nursery workers, and anybody trying to conserve rare varietals. Experiment with different techniques, rootstock combinations, interstems, and materials and you just might discover a unique new way to propagate your favorite fruit trees.

Happy grafting!

The post A Step-by-Step Guide to Grafting appeared first on One Green World.

What in the One Green World does “well-draining soil” actually mean? We’ve all seen this listed on indoor, garden, and orchard plant descriptions. We all know most varieties grow best in this elusive, mysterious medium. But what exactly is it? How do we tell if our soil is well-draining? If our soil isn’t well draining, should we reject gardening as a hobby altogether? What are some signs we’ve finally attained it?

Let’s get down to it!

The goal is to have (or create) soil that supplies both air and water to plant roots in about equal proportions. If you have coarse, sandy soil, you may notice that water drains quickly through it, so your plants dry out and wilt sooner. But in heavy clay soil, you may have the opposite problem, where water takes a long time to drain, causing roots to rot from a lack of airflow. Fortunately, it is possible to improve your soil if your garden suffers from either extreme. Improving its drainage will go a long way toward creating a healthy, successful garden or orchard.

Simply put: well-drained soil allows water to enter the soil structure at a moderate rate without pooling or puddling, hang out for long enough for the plants to absorb the water they need, and then move along, making way for good ol’ oxygen to join the party; the oxygen is also absorbed by the roots and allows them to “breathe” between waterings. Cool, right?

What are some characteristics of well-drained soil?
Imagine you fill a jar with various sizes of marbles. Each marble represents a soil particle. The spaces between the marbles are filled with oxygen and water, both of which are necessary for healthy plant growth. When it rains or you water your garden, these pore spaces in between the soil particles fill with water. As the water moves downward through the soil, it’s replaced by air. This movement is referred to as soil drainage, so let’s talk about why the speed of this process is important.

Well-drained soil retains water long enough for roots to absorb what the plant needs and dries out sufficiently between rains or waterings so that roots can take up oxygen in the air that replaces the water once it drains out. Puddles that form after heavy rain are absorbed quickly by well-drained soil. Generally, these soils have a loose structure that makes them easy to dig in. When soil drains too quickly, plants do not have enough time to absorb the water and can die. Likewise, when the soil does not drain quickly enough and plants are left in pooling water, their oxygen intake from the soil is reduced, root rot can set in, and the plants can die. Plants that are weak and suffering from insufficient or over watering are more susceptible to disease and insect damage too. Bad news bears!

How do I tell if my soil is well-draining?
Determining how well your soil drains is pretty easy. Just dig a hole approximately 15” x 15” and fill with water. After it drains completely, refill it with water and note how long it takes for the water level to drop. In soil with good drainage, the level should drop about an inch per hour.

How can I improve drainage?
To improve soil drainage, begin by simply digging organic matter (like compost or shredded leaves) into your existing soil. Compacted, clay, and sandy soils all benefit from being amended with rich organic materials. For areas with poor drainage to either extreme, too wet or too dry, thoroughly mix in organic materials such as peat moss, compost, shredded bark, or manure. Nutrient-rich, properly drained soil is very important for healthy plants. This is a straightforward solution and works for almost any soil that drains too fast or slowly. For an unplanted bed, spread 3-4 inches of your organic matter across the surface of the soil and work it into the top 8-12 inches (a garden tiller or pitchfork will do the job). For a bed that is already planted, add a couple of inches of compost to the soil surface each year and over time, nature will do the mixing. Compacted and clay soil can drain poorly and cause plant roots to sit too long in wet conditions. We advise against adding sand to clay soil to improve drainage– this will just make the problem worse! If you have heavy clay or compacted soil, either amend the soil to make it more porous or choose plants that can tolerate wet areas. Clay soil may be improved by installing a drain tile. Sandy soil can drain water away from plant roots too quickly. For sandy soil, amend the soil or choose plants that can tolerate dry and drought-like conditions. If you’d rather avoid lots of digging or want a quicker solution, you may find your solution in installing raised beds. The beds should be at least 6-8” above the existing soil level. Recipes abound for soil mixes for raised beds, but they are basically combinations of high-quality topsoil (40-60%) and compost or other well-decomposed organic matter. Creating well-draining soil in pots is similar. You can either buy bagged potting mix or make your own blend. We don’t recommend using soil from your garden in containers, no matter how well-drained.

Why are some parts of my garden or yard more well-draining than others?
It’s important to note that drainage may be different in different parts of your yard. There are many reasons why this occurs, including the removal of topsoil during construction, compaction with heavy equipment, drainage towards or diversions from municipal systems and utilities, or simply the lay of the land. If there is an area of the yard where the soil stays wet for long periods, the best solution may be to simply select plants that thrive in poorly drained, soggy soil such as Elephant Ear, ferns, and willows. Similarly, if an area of your yard stays on the dry side, no matter how much it rains or you water, that’s where you should place drought-tolerant plants, such as ceanothus, lavender, and yucca.

The post Soil Drainage 101 appeared first on One Green World.

Varieties

There are three types of Kiwis we can grow for fruit in the US. Fuzzy Kiwi (Actinidia deliciosa), is the species that produces the brown fuzzy Kiwi we commonly find in stores. It is a very vigorous vine that is hardy to about 0°F. Hardy Kiwi (Actinidia arguta) produces smaller, very sweet and flavorful fruit that has a smooth skin and can be eaten just like grapes. It is also a very vigorous vine and, depending on the variety, is hardy to minus 25°F or below. Both Fuzzy and Hardy Kiwi like a site with at least 1/2 day sun. Arctic Beauty (Actinidia kolomikta) is a more compact vine that also produces smaller, but very flavorful fruit with smooth skin.

Site Selection – All Kiwis like well-drained soil, from clayey to sandy. Fuzzy and Hardy Kiwi like 1/2 day to full sun. Arctic Beauty Kiwi likes a site with some shade and is very happy on a partially shaded arbor or on the north side of a wall or fence. If your soil is very wet, you can make a mound of soil several inches above the soil surface. This will allow water to drain away from the roots.

Support – All kiwis are twining vines. Because of their vigor and heavy crops, Fuzzy and Hardy Kiwi need a strong arbor, trellis or other support. A typical arbor for these species would be 12 feet long, 6 feet wide and 6 feet tall. Use 4×6 or larger, pressure treated posts and 4×4, 2×6 or larger cross arms for your arbor. Hi-tensile, New Zealand style fence wire works well spaced 1 1/2 to 2 feet apart across the cross arms. Arctic Beauty Kiwi is less vigorous and bears less fruit so it can be grown on a fence, wall, garden trellis, or other such support.

Planting Your Kiwis

1. Prepare your plant – If you are planting a bare-root plant, inspect the roots and cut off any broken or overly long ones. If you are planting a container plant, remove the pot and loosen the root system. If it is very dense, you may have to lay the plant on the ground and press hard on the root ball with the palm of your hand. Pull some roots out of the root ball and, if they are very long, trim them back

2. Prepare the site – If your planting site is covered by grass, start by removing a thin layer of sod in a circle 2-3 ft. in diameter. Removing it is important as grass will compete with your new plants for water and nutrients. In this newly cleared area, dig a hole wide and deep enough for the roots. After digging the hole, rough up the sides with your shovel so that your plants roots can easily spread.

3. Planting – For bare-root plants, locate the soil line on the trunk. This is indicated by a change in color, often from a dark green to yellow or black. Be sure that this point is no lower than the soil level surrounding your planting hole. For container plants, it is very important that the soil line of the plant in the pot is the no lower than the soil line surrounding the planting hole. Planting too deep can kill Kiwis. Make sure the roots are spread out in the planting hole and fill the hole with the soil you took from it. Work the soil around the roots and when the hole is full, tamp down the soil and water your plant in well. Please note We advise you to fill the planting hole with the soil that came from it. We do not recommend adding amendments or other materials to this soil. To be strong and vigorous, the roots of your Kiwi will need to grow far and wide into the surrounding soil. Once your new plant is in the ground, you can spread compost, organic fertilizer and other materials on the soil surface to feed the plant naturally.

Fertilizing and Irrigation – Because of their vigor and rapid growth rate, Fuzzy and Hardy Kiwis can use abundant amounts of nitrogen. After the first year, applying 1/2 lb. of nitrogen annually in early spring will ensure good growth throughout the summer. We recommend using organic sources of nitrogen. For example, if an organic fertilizer contains 5% nitrogen, apply 10 lbs. per plant. After 4-5 years, increase the nitrogen to 1 lb. annually. Arctic Beauty Kiwis also benefit from annual fertilizer applications, but because of their lower vigor, they should need no more than 1/2 as much as the Fuzzy and Hardy Kiwis. All Kiwis have a shallow, spreading root system and need adequate water during the growing season. A 4-6″ deep mulch in a 2-3 ft. circle around the plants will conserve moisture and deter weeds. Hay, straw or compost are good materials for mulching. During warm weather, a deep watering once a week should be sufficient. Be sure to check the soil and be careful not to overwater your plants. Reduce watering frequency in early fall to harden off your plant for winter weather.

Pruning and Training – After planting, tie your plant loosely to a stake or other support to hold it up. Once roots are established and growth begins, your Kiwi will likely produce one or more vigorous shoots from near the base of the plant. After these shoots grow approximately 2 feet, tie the strongest to a stake and allow it to grow to the top of your trellis. Tip back the other shoots at this time so they won’t compete with one you have chosen. After the main shoot reaches the top of your trellis or support you can remove the other less vigorous shoots, leaving the one you have chosen to become the main trunk of your Kiwi vine. After the main shoot grows past the top of your trellis, cut back the tip and allow two upper buds to grow. Train these new shoots to grow along the wires or structure of your arbor or trellis and tie them loosely. These new shoots will form the lateral cordons and become the permanent structure of your Kiwi.

By the end of the second season, you should have a good framework established for your Kiwis. During the second winter, prune back the new cordons (side shoots) to 10-12 buds. The lateral shoots from these basal buds will produce shoots, which can bear your first flowers and fruit. Train one of these shoots along the trellis or arbor to add length to the cordon and repeat the pruning process the following winter. Continue this process until the cordons reach the limit of your support.

Kiwis flower and bear fruit on shoots that have grown from the previous season’s growth. Annual pruning during the dormant season is important for good fruit production. Pruning is best carried out in December or January and consists of heading back the previous year’s new shoots to 10-12 buds and removing older wood, if any, that has already fruited. In addition, twisted, tangled and broken shoots should be removed as well as those crossing from one side of the plant to the other. Any shoots hanging to the ground should be removed or tied to the support. As you prune and observe your Kiwis, you will get a sense of what should stay and what should be removed.

Male plants are grown and pruned in the same way as female plants, but, since they are grown only for their flowers they need only about 1/4 of the trellis space and can be pruned more severely.

Please note that it may take 3-4 years or more before Fuzzy and Hardy Kiwis begin flowering and fruiting.

Spring Frost Protection – Depending on the species, Kiwis can withstand temperatures from 0°F to minus 40°F. While the plants are hardy to these temperatures, the new shoots and flowers of all Kiwis can be damaged by temperatures below approx. 31°F. If plants have begun growth and frost threatens, a simple way to prevent damage is to sprinkle your plants during the night with water. While ice will form on the plant, the temperature of foliage will not fall below 32°F. If the plant is small, you can simply cover it with plastic or fabric.

Winter Care of the Fuzzy Kiwi – While the Fuzzy Kiwi is hardy to 0°F., sunny weather while nighttime temperatures fall below 20°F can cause sap to flow which can freeze and damage the trunk. In severe cases, this may result in girdling of the trunk and death of the top. While shoots may come from the base, the top of the plant is lost. The best way to prevent this damage is to wrap the lower 2 to 3 ft. of the trunk with some kind of insulating or reflective material. Painting the trunk with a 50/50 mix of water and white, interior latex paint can also help prevent this damage. In addition, mulching the base of the plant with straw or other material will also help protect your Fuzzy Kiwi during severe winter weather.

The post Kiwi Growing Guide appeared first on One Green World.

This list of shade tolerant edible plants is a work in progress and we’d love to hear your experiences with these and other plants.

Akebia

Use this unique, beautiful, semi-evergreen vine to cover a fence or wall, or on an arbor or trellis. Cascading deep green foliage accents the profuse, wonderfully fragrant flowers, which range in color from very dark purple to white. Native to Japan and China, Akebia can bear unique and unusual, light blue, 4″-6″ long, edible fruits. When ripe, it splits open to reveal a row of black seeds in clear sweet pulp.

Arctic Beauty Kiwi

Native to the forests of eastern Russia where it is called Kishmish, Arctic Beauty Kiwi is the hardiest of all the Kiwi Species. A beautiful vine, its unique, light and airy foliage is splashed in the spring with green, white, and pink variegations. Male plants are especially colorful and are often planted alone for their ornamental value. Less vigorous than the Hardy or Fuzzy Kiwi and happier with some shade, you can use Arctic Beauty to cover the north side of a fence, arbor, or trellis. Enjoy the fuzzless fruit skin just like on the other Hardy Kiwi varieties.

Arctic Raspberry

Arctic Raspberry is prized for its attractive flowers and tasty fruit in addition to being one of the hardiest of fruiting plants. Also known as Nagoonberry, this thornless, low growing species of Raspberry makes a beautiful, fruiting ground-cover.  Its 1″ diameter, pink flowers bloom in late spring and are followed by sweet-tart, deliciously aromatic, small red berries in July.

Currants

Ask your European and Russian friends about Currants. A favorite fruit for many people around the world, most of us American’s have not had the opportunity to taste these delicious berries. Beautiful additions to your yard or landscape, these upright growing shrubs are attractive in bloom and a striking sight in fruit, with large clusters of pink, red, white or black berries cascading down the heavily laden branches. Currants are rich in antioxidants and have a much higher vitamin C content than oranges.

Elderberry

These easy to grow, small to medium-size shrubs are prized for their beautiful, large, white or pink flower heads, which are followed by large quantities of blue-black tasty and nutritious berries in late summer. Or ornamental varieties offer exceptionally attractive foliage in addition to fruit. Prepare delicious “elderberry fritters” from clusters of Elderberry flowers and make jelly, syrup or wine from the berries.

Evergreen Huckleberry

Growing throughout our Northwest coastal forests, this very attractive, upright growing shrub is prized for its deep green, evergreen foliage and flavorful, juicy, dark blue fruit, which is great for fresh eating and makes delicious preserves and Huckleberry pies. Evergreen Huckleberry likes shade or sun and moist, well-drained, acidic soil. It will grow to 8 ft. in height in the shade and 3-4 ft. in height in the sun. Space 3-4 ft. apart to make a beautiful, edible, evergreen hedge.

Gooseberry

These attractive, compact shrubs are widely grown and prized by gardeners in many countries. Tasty jewels of our fruit world, the newer varieties we offer are large, sweet and very good for fresh eating, preserves and pies. Our Gooseberry varieties are also easy to grow and disease-resistant.

Goumi

Native to the Russian Far East, China and Japan, Goumi is a very popular fruit in these regions and is now widely planted in many European and American gardens. Goumi forms a medium size shrub growing to 6 ft in height with attractive, silvery green foliage. It’s white flowers bloom in the middle to the end of May and are very fragrant and loved by bees making it a fantastic pollinator. The juicy, scarlet-red fruit is speckled with silver and ripens in July. Aromatic with a flavor reminiscent of pie cherries, it is very good eaten fresh and also makes tasty preserves.

Highbush Cranberry

This valuable and attractive shrub is prized for its medicinal properties, fruit, and ornamental value. Highbush Cranberry features large clusters of snow-white flowers in the spring followed in September by bright red berries and striking reddish orange foliage. After frost removes their bitterness, the berries are used for preserves, candy and baked goods. The flowers, fruit, fruit and seeds are used in herbal medicine as a fever reducer, to lower blood pressure and treat heart disease.

Honeyberry

A very hardy and unique small shrub, Honeyberry is a species of Honeysuckle with sweet and tasty fruit. Native to Eastern Siberia, the Russian Far East, and Northern Japan, Honeyberry is valued for its tasty, blueberry-like fruit, its extremely early ripening, often two weeks before strawberries, and its exceptional hardiness, to minus 40 degrees F., or below. Great for fresh eating, juicing, and preserves.  

Oregon Grape

Oregon’s State Flower, Oregon Grape is an attractive, drought-resistant, evergreen shrub that grows to about 6 ft. in height and spread. Oregon Grape displays abundant, small yellow flowers in early spring accented by glossy green foliage, which often turns purple-red or bronze in the winter. Following the flowers are heavy crops of dark blue berries, which make excellent jelly.

Pawpaw

Pawpaws (Asimina triloba) are one of the most unique and delicious fruits that can be grown in the backyard orchard. Native to eastern North America, pawpaws are the only member of the Annonaceae, or custard apple family, that is adapted to temperate climates. Its tropical relatives include the cherimoya, atemoya, guanabana, and soursop, and it is easy to see the resemblance between the pawpaw fruit and that of its tropical cousins. Pawpaw fruit combines delectable, fruity, banana-like flavor with creamy, custard-like flesh. Nutritious as well as delicious, the greenish yellow, 3″-6″ long fruit is unusually high in protein and is a good source of vitamins and minerals. Everything about this plant, from its leaf size and shape to the way its fruits look, taste and smell is tropical, yet it is cold hardy to zone 5 and can be grown in temperate climates from coast to coast. A slow growing, small tree, Pawpaw is naturally disease and pest resistant and features long, tropical-looking foliage that turns a striking bright yellow in the fall. The largest native American fruit, Pawpaw was a significant part of the Native American diet, and with our superior large-fruited varieties, is enjoying new popularity. 

Salmonberry

A very popular plant with our Northwest Native Americans, Salmonberry forms an attractive upright shrub growing to about 6 ft. in height. Salmonberry features large, pink to red flowers and golden-yellow to reddish fruit that resembles a large raspberry. The berries are variable in quality, but are always liked by birds. The young shoots are also peeled and eaten fresh or boiled as a vegetable.

Silver Vine Kiwi

From the Russian Far East, this attractive vine shares the hardwood forest of that region with Arctic Beauty and Hardy Kiwi, Amur Grape, and Magnolia Vine. Silver Vine is prized for its large, white, fragrant flowers, greenish-silver foliage, and abundant crops of unique, sweet, light orange fruit. Great for covering a fence, wall, or arbor, Silver Vine like partial shade and is hardy to minus 35ºF., USDA Zone 3.

Spicebush

Spicebush, from the laurel family, form attractive shrubs and will have either male or female pale yellow flowers that produce glossy red berries. The leaves, flowers, and berry all have a very flavorful spice which gives it it’s namesake. A Spicebush tea can be made from the aromatic leaves and twigs, and the dried and powdered  fruit can be used as a spice.

Thimbleberry

Thimbleberry bears clusters of large, white flowers followed by Raspberry-like, delectably sweet, red berries. Native Americans ate the fruit fresh and also dried it and mixed it with other berries. This attractive small shrub has very large and soft, maple-leaf shaped foliage.

Wintergreen

Wintergreen Shrub, a beautiful evergreen groundcover, is native to the East Coast and produces profuse, small white flowers followed by sweet and flavorful, bright red berries, which taste just like Wintergreen candy. Growing to about 6″ tall, it will spread slowly to a foot or more in diameter.

The post Shade Tolerant Edible Plants appeared first on One Green World.

The following plants require less Chill Hours to go through dormancy.  The list is especially useful for gardeners in southern regions where other varieties will not grow and fruit satisfactorily. Treat this list as a guide and be sure to check with your local Extension agent or local growers to learn more about what you can grow in your region.

We would also love to know your experiences with these and other plants.

Low Chill Plants Listed Below

The post Low Chill Plants appeared first on One Green World.

Fragrant Flowers lift your spirits with these delightfully fragrant flowers. While the blooms of Kiwis, Apples, Pears and many other plants are pleasantly fragrant, the following are particularly appealing.

The post Very Fragrant Flowers appeared first on One Green World.

Decorate your yard and enjoy abundant harvests of unique and delicious fruit!

With all this cold and rainy weather, it may take some convincing for us to believe that spring is really on its way. But it is and by the middle of February the danger of extremely cold weather will be past. So it’s time to get out the nursery and seed catalogs, snuggle up in front of the fire, and begin dreaming of all the delicious food we can grow.

There are many reasons to grow our own food. For many people, saving money is top on the list. Seeds are cheap and with a little work, you can grow a summer’s worth of vegetables in a small space. Fruit trees, shrubs and vines are even easier over the long term, as once they are planted they require very little care to produce good crops every year. When we grow our own food we can choose the tastiest varieties and can harvest our produce when it is at the peak of ripeness. We don’t need to store it for weeks and ship it for hundreds of miles! We also know how our food has been grown and what has been sprayed on it, if anything. Plus, we save energy and reduce our carbon footprint by not having to drive to the store so often.

When choosing varieties, be sure to look for ones adapted to your unique growing conditions. While our Northwest adapted varieties will grow and thrive almost anywhere in the US, many varieties from outside our region suffer from disease in our climate and some require more heat to successfully ripen. We are constantly evaluating our selections and looking for the best and most delicious fruits we can grow.

I grew up with paper catalogs and personally like having one in my hands while I dream about what to plant. Our newest One Green World catalog has just been printed and we’d be happy to send you one. For many of us, it’s more convenient to browse a website and we offer you our new one, complete with the latest varieties and up to date information.

—

In 1979, looking for a way to make a living on the farm, I began growing trees. Combining my interests in fruit and woodworking, I was intrigued by growing plants that would live for many years and provide both food and wood. This project quickly become focused on finding the most unique and interesting fruiting plants for our Northwest growing conditions. In this column I will be sharing my favorite plants and the experiences I’ve had with them.

The post DIYFruit – Plan Your Garden and Orchard Now appeared first on One Green World.

Early winter can be a quiet time on the farm. We’ve finished our digging of bareroot trees, the seed beds are mulched and covered with chicken wire to deter hungry squirrels. It’s a good time to catch up on paperwork and plan for next year’s growing season.

A recently dug field with seed beds in the background

Bareroot Columnar Apples – labeled, inventoried and ready to ship

Sawdust beds for storing bareroot plants

The post Oregon Almanac – Bareroot Grading appeared first on One Green World.

Ukraine is not often thought of as an Olive growing region. The Black Sea coast in the southern part of the country offers conditions suitable for cultivation of this delicious fruit. Sheltered from the cold continental weather by a range of tall mountains, it enjoys mild winters and warm summers.

The Nikita Botanic Garden in Yalta, Ukraine has had an active Olive breeding program.  For many years it has supplied us with cuttings of several of their varieties. Selected for their early ripening and hardiness, we believe they have great promise in the Pacific Northwest and other mild winter regions of the US.

To evaluate these unique selections in our region, we have planted a small orchard on a friends place near Canby, Oregon. While they are still under evaluation, we invite you to join us and be among the first to try these hardy and promising varieties. We recommend planting at least two varieties (Arbequina or Leccino can be included).  We are not sure about the pollination requirements of these plants. Please be sure let us know how they grow and perform at your location.

Planting our Ukrainian varieties.

Site of our Olive trial orchard.

The post DIY Fruit – Be an Olive Pioneer! appeared first on One Green World.