How to establish your Pawpaw plants

To successfully grow pawpaw fruit we must first understand a few things about its natural history. The tree grows primarily in river floodplains and shady rich bottomlands. They form dense groves, spreading clonally by underground runners and spend many years growing as an understory species until there is a break in the canopy and they can make their leap into the sunnier conditions provided by an opening in the canopy. It is only once they are growing in fuller sunlight that they produce significant crops of their delicious fruit. These are the conditions we must try to mimic in order to grow healthy paw paw trees that give us good crops.

Site selection

Rich, deep, well draining soils are ideal conditions for planting your new pawpaws in. Although they grow in river floodplains that may become seasonally inundated, the pawpaw does best when it has deep well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. To mimic the understory conditions that the pawpaw needs for its establishment years you could plant on the north side of a fence where the pawpaw will be shaded while it’s young but receive full sunlight as it matures and grows above the fence line.

Another option is to establish a quick growing nitrogen fixing tree or shrub on the south side of where you plan on planting your pawpaw. Get this tree established the year before so it can provide adequate shade for your newly planted pawpaw tree. Choosing nitrogen-fixing species gives you a quick growing tree that will properly shade your pawpaw as well as providing fertility for the tree. The shade tree can then be cut down a few years later once your paw paw is established and the danger of sunburnt leaves and shoots is no longer a threat.

A third option is to plant quick growing annual legumes on the south side of the pawpaw while also building a simple bean or pea trellis over the top of the paw paw to provide quick shade, nitrogen fixation, as well as a crop from your leguminous shade-giving plants as you wait for your pawpaws to mature. Also, planting in a site that is as humid as possible is ideal for the pawpaw. Near a pond can be a great place to plant if you are in an area with dryer summers like we have here in the Pacific Northwest.

Transplanting

The paw paw can be a very difficult species to transplant. It has a very deep root system and does not like its roots to be disturbed or broken. For this reason we sell pawpaws while they are still quite small to ensure higher transplant success rates. While the plant is dormant, or in the spring just after bud break, is the best time to transplant. Be very careful not to disturb the roots. Water in well just as you would any other tree and keep very well watered for the first couple years.

Plant spacing

Pawpaws can be spaced relatively close together, even as close as 5 feet. Because you will most likely be planting grafted named cultivars, this is the best way to mimic the dense root suckering groves that paw paws form in the wild. It’s believed that pawpaws actively graft their roots together and share nutrients more readily than many other species, and close plant spacing helps to achieve this. Planting as close as 5 feet or as far as 10 feet apart, and planting at least three different varieties for cross-pollination, has been shown to be the most successful.

Pollination

Pollination can be the major limiting factor to getting good crops of pawpaw fruit. The flowers are protogynous meaning that the female organ, the stigma, ripens before the pollen does and is therefore not receptive when the pollen is ripe. This ensures that the flower cannot pollinate itself. The entire tree is also usually self-incompatible, meaning that pollen from one flower on the tree will not pollinate the stigma of other flowers on the same tree.

Therefore the pawpaw requires pollination from a tree with entirely different genetics to be successfully pollinated. This is why we always suggest purchasing many different paw paw varieties to ensure the most successful pollination. The more trees you have the more successful your pollination will be. Two varieties is the absolute minimum you can plant to get fruit but more fruit is produced with three or more varieties.

Finally, you must attract the pawpaw’s natural pollinators to achieve successful transfer of the pollen between flowers. In this case keeping honeybees will not help you out as the pawpaw flowers are designed for the decomposers of the world. They are a deep and beautiful reddish purple color and smell a bit like rotting flesh in order to attract various species of flies and beetles. One strategy for attracting these pollinators is to put road kill or rotting meat near your pawpaws when they are flowering to attract their natural pollinators. If this sounds too unappealing to you it is also possible to pollinate by hand, just be sure that once the tree starts setting fruit that no single branch is too loaded up with fruit or it may cause it to break or result in smaller fruits.

Checkout a more in-depth look into pawpaw pollination HERE.

Pests and Diseases

The pawpaw is relatively pest and disease free. If you have deer problems in your area then pawpaw trees are a wonderful choice. Deer avoid eating pawpaw leaves even in areas where deer populations are sky high. A few insect pests exist, but most are relatively minor.

The pawpaw peduncle borer (Talponia plummeriana) burrows into the flowers causing them to wither and drop and can even destroy the majority of blossoms, although this is rare. Other pests in the Eastern United States include the Zebra Swallowtail Butterfly (Eurytides marcellus) whose larvae feed exclusively on young pawpaw leaves. The relationship between the Zebra Swallowtail and the pawpaw is similar to that of the Monarch butterfly and the milkweed plant.

The acetogenins that are present in the paw paw leaves remain present in trace amounts in the Zebra Swallowtails body for the remainder of its life, making it unpalatable to birds or other predators. The incredible beauty of the Zebra Swallowtail and the minimal damage it does to the leaves make this insect not much of a concern. A blue stain disease can also infect paw paws but it is not believed that a microbial agent is responsible for this but rather it is a result of stress or trauma to the tree. In general pawpaws are one of the most disease and pest resistant fruit trees that you can grow.

Varietal selection

The best way to select your varieties is to contact your local agricultural extension agency and ask them which pawpaw varieties will grow best in your area. In general, we recommend the earlier fruiting varieties for areas where summers are not as humid as the eastern United States where the pawpaw is native.

Using the Pawpaw Fruit

The fruit is primarily used for fresh eating. It is extremely perishable and is amazingly delicious when it is perfectly ripe. It can be used much like you would use a banana. Try replacing bananas with paw paw fruit in a banana bread recipe or adding paw paws to a berry smoothie. For longer-term storage you can freeze the fruit and make ice cream out of it. Any recipe that requires adding heat or cooking the pawpaw is not recommended as the flavor compounds are extremely volatile and cooking can destroy the delicious pawpaw flavor, although it seems to retain a good flavor when mixed with flour and used as a baking additive.

            Let us know about your experiences with paw paws, which varieties work best in your area, what recipes you’ve found to use them in, and what strategies have been successful for getting them established, and enjoy the look and taste of this amazing tropical tree in your own backyard!

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One of our favorite fruits, Blueberries are easy to grow and will produce abundant crops of delectable and flavorful berries. In addition to nutritious and delicious fruit, these attractive shrubs will add beauty to your yard, garden or patio. Following these guidelines in our Blueberry Growing Guide will help you succeed in growing this tasty berry.

SITE SELECTION

Blueberries like well-drained, acidic soil and ½ day to full sun. On wetter sites, where water drains slowly, Blueberries will like growing in 2-3 ft. wide, 8-12” high, raised beds. Planting your Blueberries near your home makes frequent harvest easy.

SITE PREPARATION

Providing a good environment for your plants in the beginning will give you delicious rewards in the future. Planting in acid soil is one of the most important factors in success with Blueberries. If you are planting your Blueberries in the ground, adding abundant amounts of pre-moistened peat moss to your soil will increase acidity and make a nice environment for your plants. For each plant, prepare an about 2ft. in diameter and 1 ft. deep. Work in about a cubic ft. of peat moss (usually about ¼ of a bale). Well-rotted fir or pine sawdust can be used as a substitute for peat moss. Do not use cedar sawdust as it can be toxic to the root system.

If you are growing your plants in containers, use a coarse, well-drained potting soil that is designed for acid-loving plants like Rhododendrons and Azaleas.

PLANTING

Highbush Blueberries can be planted as close as 3 ft. apart to form a hedge and 6 ft. or more apart to be grown as individual specimens. Lowbush and Dwarf Blueberries can be spaced as close as 2 ft. apart.

Remove your plant from the container and lightly loosen and spread out the roots. Remove any excessively long roots and then dig your planting hole large enough to comfortably accommodate the root system. Place the plant in the hole so that the top surface of the potting soil is at the same level or a little above the level of the soil surrounding the planting hole. Firm the soil around your plant and water well.

After planting, it is a good idea to mulch your plant with 3-4 inches of fir, hemlock or pine sawdust. This will conserve moisture, suppress weeds and contribute to soil acidity.

WATERING & FERTILIZING

Once planted and watered in well, your new plant should not need supplemental water for some time. If planting during warm, dry weather pay attention to the original potting soil and do not let it dry out. It takes several weeks for the roots to fully establish contact with the new soil. Summer watering should be done deeply and infrequently. A mulched plant should not require watering more often than once a week.

Blueberries like acidic fertilizers, like those used for Rhododendrons and Azaleas. Down to Earth Acid Mix is specially formulated for Blueberries. Blood meal, fishmeal, cottonseed meal and feather meal are also good, organic, acidic fertilizers for your Blueberries. Your plant will not need much if any fertilizer the first year. The year after planting, pull back the mulch in March and spread approx. 1/2 lb. of any of these fertilizers on the soil around the plant. Apply fertilizer annually for best results.

POLLINATION & BLUEBERRY TYPES

Most of the time blueberry plants are going to produce fruit as many of the varieties on the market are self-fertile. But, if you are interested in maximizing your production and generally larger berries, pollination is key. There are considered to be 5 “types” of blueberries; Northern Highbush, Southern Highbush, Rabbiteye, Half-high, and Lowbush. For best pollination results most often it is ideal to choose a pollenizer within the same blueberry “type” that also shares a similar bloom time. In addition, matching a blueberry to its suited climate will play a role in production. The Rabbiteye varieties are considered not self-fertile and need to cross with another variety within its own “type”. The key below offers some key indicators for which type might work best in your climate while also highlighting bloom times.

Northern Highbush

• Average size: 5-9’
• Tolerate colder regions (most hardy to -15 to -30 degrees F)
• Most need a moderate amount of chill hours
• Great choice for PNW
• Generally considered self-fertile, cross-pollinates with all other Highbush varieties with matching bloom times
• Varieties: Aurora, Baby Blues, Bluecrop, Bluejay, Blueray, Cabernet Splash, Chandler, Darrow, Draper, Duke, Earliblue, Elliot, Hannah’s Choice, Legacy, Liberty, Patriot, Pink Icing, Pink Popcorn, Midnight Cascade, Mini Blues, Razz, Rubel, Sapphire Cascade, Spartan, Sunshine Blue, Superior, Sweetheart, Toro

Southern Highbush

• Average size: 6-8’ (4-6’ in northern regions)
• Hardiness (-10 to 5 degrees F depending on variety)
• Can be partially evergreen in Northern climates (though tends to grow a bit smaller)
• Great for regions with fewer chill hours
• Cross with other Southern Highbush or Northern with similar bloom time
• Varieties: Biloxi, Emerald, Jewel, Jubilee, O’Neal

Rabbiteye

• Average size: 6-10’
• 4-6’ in Northern regions
• Not as cold tolerant and flower bud damage with temps under 0 to 5 degrees F
• Great for long hot summers
• In PNW fruit ripens late summer early fall
• Not self-fertile, need another rabbiteye cultivar
• Varieties: Florida Rose, Misty, Nocturne, Ochlockonee, Pink Lemonade

Half-High

• Average size: 3-4’
• These cultivars are very hardy most down to -35 degrees F or lower
• Choose these cultivars for colder regions where other blueberry varieties can’t grow
• Also great for container growing and not as much pruning as Highbush cultivars
• Cross with Highbush cultivars with similar bloom time
• Varieties: Chippewa, Northcountry, Northsky, Tophat

Lowbush

• Average size: 1-2’
• Hardiness at least -30 degrees F
• Low growing shrubs that spread from underground stems
• Pruning is less necessary but if it gets to branch it may be beneficial to cut the plants back to the ground every 2-3 years
• Not self-fertile, cross with lowbush or Highbush cultivars with similar bloom times
• Varieties: Brunswick, Burgundy

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Water is life

The most important thing for plants and all life is water. Every drop counts! A seed must absorb water before germinating. Roots can uptake nutrients only when water is available. This spaceship called planet Earth thankfully has an abundance of the wet stuff.

Let’s jump right in and start talking about the importance of watering newly installed plants during June, July, and August. These are the most important months of the year to water and ensure that your plants get established. It’s life or death out there this time of year, especially for an unestablished plant.

Many parts of the country are hot, hot, hot and getting hotter each year. But like the old saying goes “just add water” and it will grow. We strive to grow an abundance of our own homegrown fruit and veggies so we know that water can make or break your harvest expectations. Here in the PNW, we often go all summer without any appreciable rainfall so its crucial to water correctly during the summer months.

The most important thing you can do for a freshly planted tree, shrub or veggie plant, whether it was planted last fall, spring or even this summer is to provide the correct amount of water during the summer.

All plants, trees and shrubs need different amounts of water depending on where they’re native to and the types of soil and rainfall they are adapted to. Plants from areas with high summer rainfall often need much supplemental water to survive and produce fruit in our climate, while plants from areas with dry summers might actually receive too much water in certain areas of the country that receive summer rainfall. Understanding a plant’s natural history will better inform how much water to give it and when to water it.

Here are some of the factors that affect how much you water and how often you water:

• Type of plant
• Location
• Sun & wind exposure
• Soil type
• Slope
• Time of day

Trees, shrubs, vines, small ground covers- size, growth habit and type matters.

Newly planted trees benefit from less frequent, long, slow soakings. The big mistake people make is to casually hit the new planting with the hose every day for a few minutes thinking it’s wet enough. The better option would be to set the hose down at the root zone with it running very slowly and walk away. Take a walk around the yard, start dinner or maybe kick back in your chair with a tasty beverage. Let the hose run at a slow trickle for a couple of hours. This slow drip will penetrate deep into the soil encouraging a tap root to follow.

Drip Irrigation

As you can imagine, doing this for every single plant in a landscape would be a full time job which is why we often recommend drip irrigation systems to our customers, especially those that live in dry summer climates such as ours. Drip irrigation systems are incredibly easy to set up. All the materials you need can be found at your local hardware store and no prior experience with plumbing or irrigation is necessary to set up a simple drip irrigation system.

The two types of drip irrigation most commonly seen are simple soaker hoses that have emitters built into them usually about a foot apart and drip out a certain amount of gallons per hour all along the strip. This is a great option if you want to keep an entire area of soil moist or a long densely planted strip of plants that all require the same or very similar water needs. The soaker hose is by far the simplest drip irrigation system to install. All you need to do is roll it out and hook your garden hose up to it, set the timer and you’re done.

For areas that are less densely planted or require different amounts of water for different plant types within an irrigation zone a drip system with specific emitters running to each plant is a great option. This keeps the areas where nothing is planted dry so less weeds are able to grow and you can control exactly how many gallons per hour go to each plant. This is especially useful when planting species from many different climate types and also for integrating new plantings that require more water early on into a system with already established plants. All you need is a length of polytube, a pressure reducing garden hose adapter and a few different sizes of emitters and soon enough you’ll be a drip irrigation expert! Sitting back and watching your little irrigation system deliver deep waterings to each plant in your garden is a severe delight indeed!

Some plants are extremely vigorous growers that require more water and fertilizer. You know the types of plants I am talking about- Kiwis, Peaches and Cherry trees love to get watered and did you know summertime watering will determine next year’s crop size! Yes indeed, next year’s flower buds are forming during the early and mid summer months.

Next it’s location, location, location.

It’s all about the location! Whether it’s the south side of a wall with full sun exposure or the north side of a building many different microclimates exist, especially in the urban and suburban environment that will have a great impact on the water needs of your plant. New plantings in full sun versus a shady cool spot make all the difference in watering time and volume requirements.

Sun and wind exposure are a big deal too.

You know how thirsty you get after being outside on a hot, windy day. Likewise, a cloudy windless day seems to pass without much concern for hydration. Just like us, plants need more or less water based on the conditions. Wind can actually be a very powerful drying force. Not only does wind dry out the soil it also sucks moisture from the leaves.

What type of soil do you have?

Soil types are important to understand for determining the frequency, amount and speed of water flow. For gravelly, sandy or sandy loam types of soils, you have to water more frequently. The individual grains of soil are so much larger than in a clay soils so the water drains much more quickly from them. Check every 10 days by digging down about 8 inches next to the root ball. The soil should still be moist not dry when watering again. Clay tends to hold more moisture as well as nutrients so plan accordingly. Some sites can go 2 weeks or more before another deep watering. It’s important to monitor and stay consistent especially for 1st and even 2nd-year plantings in order to establish a resilient root system.

The underground zone.

As we all know water flows downhill, so it’s basic knowledge on placing your water flow uphill of the tree or shrub. But did you know that groundwater dispersal under the soil is based on a myriad of factors?

Yes, the spread of water underground is determined by capillary action and the composition and texture of the soil particles. After that it gets really scientific so if you want to nerd out on the water as we do then read more in-depth here about Efficient and Responsible Water Use. If not just remember to dig down and check you have watered enough if you are unsure.

Researchers in Australia discovered that Plants “listen” to find the source of water. We just wanted to throw that in there because it’s so cool!!

Don’t forget timing

Time of day when watering is important. The best time is as early in the morning as possible (maybe even with your cuppa joe in one hand and the watering can in the other). Watering in the morning gives plants a big gulp of water just as they are ramping up the photosynthetic factories for the day and beginning to transpire. It also allows the topmost part of the soil to dry out some which cuts back on soil borne fungal issues

It is an option to water in the evening or at night, and certainly more convenient for many folks, but it leaves your soil sometimes excessively wet overnight before the plants begin to really uptake the water the following morning and is still more preferable than watering during the heat of the day.

Of course the last and least desirable option is watering in the middle of the day, which please don’t get us wrong, water in the day if you have to and if your plants need it. We constantly have to water during the heat of the day throughout the summer. It’s especially important for container plants. If you see wilting then it’s often difficult to rehydrate them as the soil goes hydrophobic, so try soaking the container in a bucket until it perks back up. Some plants also despise being watered during hot weather, specifically Mediterranean plants and those adapted to dry summers. Watering them during the heat of the day, or sometimes during the summer at all, can bring about their demise. For plants adapted to these dry summer climates we strongly urge you water as early in the morning as possible.

But in general, listen to your plants and if they’re screaming at you for water give them water!

Key Points to remember.

Let’s remind ourselves of key points that apply to all plants from your trees outside to citrus and houseplants in containers indoors.

• If a plant gets too much water or doesn’t have enough drainage the soil will go anaerobic, which means lack of oxygen and your roots will die.
• If a plant gets too little water and dries out then important nutrients will not flow back and forth between leaves and roots, or if it gets too dry permanent damage to leaf tissue can occur.
• Plants require therefore just the right amount of water. Not too much and not too little.

Types of irrigation.

Irrigation can fill up a lifetime of research and practice all on its own. If you want to read a research-driven article on Irrigation Types from The Backyard Orchardist you can find out more specifics for different types of plants and soils. We use drip irrigation whenever we can on our own in ground plants as it is the most efficient way to water outside of hand watering and saves us incredible amounts of time. But we also utilize overhead sprinklers here at the nursery and of course hand watering will always be a necessity no matter what kind of irrigation system you have. It’s best to have watering options.

In conclusion,

Watering should be fun! After all, you get to use a magic wand that sprays out a life-giving substance. Take the time to observe your beloved plants and enjoy your time in the garden watching flowers unfold, insects fly, and life unfolding. When you water you are creating your own “one green world.” Happy Watering!

The post Summer Watering Guide appeared first on One Green World.

• Water plants deeply, ideally first thing in the morning while temperatures are still low and transpiration rates are low. Potted plants will probably want to be watered more than once a day during a heat wave. The next best time to water during hot weather is in the early evening. Trees and plants in or near irrigated grass yards will often want more frequent waterings as they can become spoiled and and often have shallower root systems. Generally speaking established trees will need deep waterings 2-3 time a week or more during heat waves. Soaker hoses, and drip irrigation work well for deep waterings as they insure there is less water run-off.
• Mulch deeply! If you don’t already have a thick layer of organic mulch around your plants, apply some before the temperatures really heat up. Organic mulch helps keep soil temperatures lower, retains moisture, keeps weed pressure down and improves soil health.
• Move potted plants to a shaded area. Plants in black plastic pots are more susceptible to having their roots fried in those hot pots than plants in ground are. While the heat wave persists move these plants to as cool of an area as possible. Also, beware of potted plants close to a wall that might receive radiant and or reflective heat during the day. Micro climates can increase temperatures by over 10 degrees.
• Set up shade cloth for young tender plants. Younger plants may not be able to handle the heat as well as more established plantings. Consider placing temporary shade cloth over them during the heat wave.
• Watch the leaves on your plants. Leaves wilt during extremely hot and sunny days as a defense mechanism. The wilting lowers the surface area exposed to the sun thus limiting transpiration and sunburn. However, if the plant does not perk up in the evening or after watering in the morning then it might be a sign of to much or too little watering.
• Install and irrigation system for you garden or orchard. The best defense for extreme weather is having healthy established plants. Caring for them year round with the right organic fertilizers and amendments, seasonal pruning, and good watering practices are the best way to insure your plants make it through extreme weather.

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Feb 1, 2015

In September we returned to Ulan Ude, the capital of the Russian Republic of Buryatia. On our previous visit in 1998 we attended a unique international Sea Berry Conference which featured the valuable varieties from this region. This year we met old friends, checked out new Sea Berry varieties, and visited the plantations we had seen in 1998.

2-1/2 days on the Trans-Siberian railroad – an epic journey on a comfortable train with friendly traveling companions.

The Siberian landscape is vast, beautiful and unpopulated. Traveling by train gave us lots of time for reading, visiting and taking photos.

The view from the former experimental Sea Berry plantation near Ulan Ude. The landscape is reminiscent of Montana with its ‘big skies’.

Lorraine and our friend Klim Arbakov collecting Sea Berry samples. The plantation has been abandoned, although many of the plants are still bearing fruit.

Klim Arbakov in his dacha garden with his own variety, which we call Klim’s Prize. Klim has been researching wild Sea Berry plants in Buryatia since the 1970’s.

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